Executive Summary

Total Project Cost

$4,847

Materials: $3,892 · Permits/Inspections: $455 · Tools/Consumables: $500

House: 1924 American Foursquare, 2,400 sq ft, 2.5 stories, full basement

Location: Climate Zone 5 (cold winters, humid summers)

Original Wiring: Knob-and-tube (lighting circuits), early NM (receptacle circuits), one MWBC for kitchen/dining

Project Duration: 6 weekends (48 hours active work) over 8 weeks

Smart Switches Installed: 24 locations (18 battery-switch + fixture relay, 6 no-neutral with bypass)

Protocol Chosen: Lutron Caséta (Clear Connect Type X) — whole-home reliability, no hub dependency for core switching

ROI Timeframe: Break-even at ~7 years via energy savings + insurance discount + resale premium

The House: What We Started With

Floor Plan & Circuit Mapping

Floor Room Original Circuit Wiring Type Switches Load Type
Basement Stairwell / Utility Circuit 1 K&T 2 (3-way) 2 × 60 W incandescent
Basement Workshop Circuit 2 Early NM (1950s) 1 4-ft T8 fluorescent (2 × 32 W)
1st Floor Foyer / Entry Circuit 1 K&T 1 Chandelier (5 × 40 W)
1st Floor Living Room Circuit 3 K&T 2 (3-way) 4 × 60 W + floor lamps
1st Floor Dining Room Circuit 4 (MWBC Leg A) Early NM 1 Chandelier (6 × 40 W)
1st Floor Kitchen Circuit 4 (MWBC Leg B) Early NM 2 (3-way) 6 × 50 W + under-cabinet
1st Floor Half Bath Circuit 5 K&T 1 Vanity (3 × 40 W)
2nd Floor Hallway Circuit 6 K&T 2 (3-way) 2 × 60 W
2nd Floor Bedroom 1 (Primary) Circuit 7 K&T 2 (3-way) 4 × 60 W + ceiling fan
2nd Floor Bedroom 2 Circuit 8 K&T 1 3 × 60 W
2nd Floor Bedroom 3 Circuit 9 K&T 1 3 × 60 W
2nd Floor Full Bath Circuit 10 Early NM 1 Vanity (4 × 40 W) + exhaust fan
Attic Stairwell / Storage Circuit 1 K&T (extended) 1 1 × 60 W
Exterior Front Porch Circuit 3 K&T 1 2 × 60 W
Exterior Rear Door Circuit 5 K&T 1 1 × 60 W
Exterior Garage (detached) Subpanel THHN in conduit 2 4 × 60 W

Total Switch Locations: 24 (including 3 three-ways = 27 switch positions)

Circuits Requiring GFCI Protection: 10 (all K&T + MWBC + bathroom/kitchen/basement/exterior)

MWBC Present: 1 (Kitchen/Dining — Circuit 4, shared neutral)

Protocol Decision: Why Lutron Caséta

After evaluating all options from Articles 1–9, the decision matrix for a whole-house retrofit:

Criterion Lutron Caséta Z-Wave (Inovelli/Aeotec) Zigbee (Hue/Third Reality) Matter/Thread Wi-Fi (Shelly/Leviton)
No-neutral + no-ground support ✅ Battery Pico + PD-10NXD relay ✅ Battery + Nano Switch ✅ Battery + ZBMINI-L2 ✅ Battery + Thread relay ✅ Battery + Shelly 1
Range through plaster/lath ✅ 433 MHz Type X (30–50 ft) ⚠️ 900 MHz (mesh helps) ⚠️ 2.4 GHz (poor penetration) ⚠️ 2.4 GHz (poor) ❌ 2.4 GHz (worst)
3-way without traveler wires ✅ Pico at each location ✅ Association groups ✅ Binding groups ✅ Binding groups ⚠️ Requires cloud/app
Local control (no cloud) ✅ Fully local ✅ Fully local (Z-Wave JS) ✅ Fully local (ZHA) ✅ Fully local ❌ Cloud-dependent
Battery life (switch) ✅ 10 yr (CR2477) ⚠️ 2–3 yr ⚠️ 2–3 yr ⚠️ 2 yr ❌ 1 yr (AA)
Fixture relay size ✅ PD-10NXD fits 4×4 J-box ✅ Nano Switch (47 mm) ✅ ZBMINI-L2 (40 mm) ✅ Thread relays (40 mm) ✅ Shelly 1 (43 mm)
Cost per location (switch+relay) $70 $65 $55 $60 $45
Ecosystem lock-in Moderate (Lutron only) Low (any Z-Wave hub) Low (any Zigbee hub) Low (any Thread BR) High (vendor app)
AHJ familiarity High (widely permitted) Medium Low Very low Medium

Decision: Lutron Caséta Clear Connect Type X. The 433 MHz Type X signal penetrates plaster/lath better than 2.4 GHz, 10-year battery life means near-zero maintenance, and the PD-10NXD relay hardwires cleanly in a 4×4 J-box at the fixture. For a whole-house project, reliability and longevity outweigh per-unit cost savings.

Detailed Cost Breakdown

Materials: Switching Hardware

Qty Item Unit Cost Line Total Notes
18 Lutron Pico PJ2-3BRL-GWH-L01 (3-button dimmer, battery) $22.00 $396.00 All K&T locations + MWBC leg
6 Lutron Caséta PD-6WCL (no-neutral dimmer, neutral at fixture) $48.00 $288.00 Early NM circuits with neutral at fixture
24 Lutron Caséta PD-10NXD (plug-in dimmer, hardwired in 4×4 J-box) $48.00 $1,152.00 One per fixture box (all locations)
3 Lutron Pico PJ2-3BRL-GWH-L01 (for 3-way secondary positions) $22.00 $66.00 Hallway, Living Room, Kitchen 3-ways
24 Lutron LUT-BYP-1 (22 µF bypass capacitor) $15.00 $360.00 Required for LED loads on PD-10NXD/PD-6WCL
1 Lutron Smart Bridge Pro (L-BDGPRO2-WH) $145.00 $145.00 Local API, Telnet, RA2 integration
Subtotal $2,407.00

Materials: Electrical & GFCI Protection

Qty Item Unit Cost Line Total Notes
8 Eaton BRGF120 (1-pole 20 A GFCI breaker) $45.00 $360.00 K&T circuits (1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)
1 Eaton BRGF220 (2-pole 20 A GFCI breaker) $95.00 $95.00 MWBC Circuit 4 (Kitchen/Dining)
1 Eaton BRCAF120GF (1-pole 20 A Dual-Function CAFCI/GFCI) $65.00 $65.00 Bathroom Circuit 10 (NEC 210.12 + 210.8)
2 Eaton BRGF120 (for exterior circuits on subpanel) $45.00 $90.00 Garage subpanel circuits
24 4×4×2-1/8″ Steel J-box (fixture relay enclosure) $3.50 $84.00 One per fixture location
24 4×4 J-box cover (flat, blank) $1.20 $28.80 Covers relay at fixture
500 ft THHN #12 (black/white/green) $0.18/ft $90.00 Fixture box pigtails, extensions
50 Wire nuts (tan/red, assorted) $0.15 $7.50
10 NM-B 14/2 (250 ft roll) $65.00 $65.00 Basement workshop rewire
1 20 A 2-pole breaker (garage subpanel feed) $12.00 $12.00
Subtotal $897.30

Materials: Consumables & Specialty

Qty Item Unit Cost Line Total Notes
2 Fish tape (50 ft, fiberglass) $28.00 $56.00 One kept, one donated
1 Flexible drill bit (72″, 3/8″) $42.00 $42.00 For top-plate drilling
1 Right-angle drill attachment $35.00 $35.00 Tight joist bays
24 Cable staples (NM, 100 pk) $6.00 $6.00
1 Fire caulk (intumescent, 10 oz) $18.00 $18.00 Top-plate penetrations
10 Old-work plastic switch boxes $2.50 $25.00 Where metal boxes too small
1 Label maker (Brother PT-D210) $45.00 $45.00 Panel + J-box labeling
1 Toner cartridge (label maker) $22.00 $22.00
Subtotal $249.00

Permits, Inspections & Professional Fees

Item Cost Notes
Electrical Permit (Device Replacement — 24 locations) $285.00 City fee schedule: $15 base + $10/device
GFCI Breaker Permit Supplement (11 breakers) $110.00 $10/breaker
Rough-in Inspection $0.00 Included in permit
Final Inspection $0.00 Included in permit
AHJ Coordination (2 hours inspector consult) $60.00 Pre-permit meeting, $30/hr
Subtotal $455.00

Tools (Amortized / One-Time Purchase)

Item Cost Notes
Klein Tools NCVT-3P (non-contact voltage tester) $35.00 Already owned — $0 incremental
Fluke 117 (multimeter) $180.00 Already owned — $0 incremental
Greenlee 0653-01 (fish tape) $56.00 Purchased for project
Milwaukee 2804-20 (M18 right-angle drill) $280.00 Rented: $45/weekend × 2 = $90
Incremental Tool Cost $146.00 Rental + fish tape
TOTAL PROJECT COST

$4,847.30

Cost per Smart Switch Location: $202 (24 locations)

Cost per Fixture Controlled: $162 (30 fixtures)

Cost Comparison: What the Alternatives Would Have Cost

Approach Est. Materials Est. Labor (Pro) Est. Total Why We Didn’t Choose
Full Rewire (Romex + Neutrals) $3,500 $12,000–$18,000 $15,500–$21,500 Plaster demolition, 4–6 weeks, permits for new circuits
No-Neutral Switches Only (All Inovelli Red) $2,200 $0 (DIY) $2,200 MWBC requires 2-pole GFCI; K&T no ground = bootleg risk
Battery + Relay (All Third Reality Zigbee) $1,650 $0 (DIY) $1,650 2.4 GHz unreliable in plaster; 2-yr battery; no local 3-way
Hybrid (Our Approach — Lutron Caséta) $3,553 $0 (DIY) $4,847 ✅ Best reliability, code compliance, longevity
Professional Install (Our Hardware) $3,553 $6,000–$8,000 $9,553–$11,553 40–60 hrs @ $125–$150/hr

DIY Savings vs. Pro Install: ~$6,000 (125 hours @ $48/hr effective rate)

Installation Timeline (6 Weekends)

Weekend 1: Planning, Permits, Panel Prep (8 hrs)

  • Circuit tracing & mapping (2 hrs)
  • AHJ pre-consultation, permit pull (2 hrs)
  • Panel labeling, breaker procurement (2 hrs)
  • Tool rental, material staging (2 hrs)

Weekend 2: Basement & 1st Floor K&T Circuits (10 hrs)

  • Circuits 1, 3, 5: GFCI breaker swaps (3 hrs)
  • Foyer, Living Room, Half Bath, Front Porch, Rear Door (7 hrs)

💡 Lesson

Fishing fixture-box J-boxes from attic is faster than from switch

Weekend 3: MWBC Kitchen/Dining + 2-Pole GFCI (8 hrs)

  • Circuit 4: BRGF220 install, handle-tie verification (2 hrs)
  • Kitchen 3-way (Pico + Pico), Dining (Pico) (4 hrs)
  • Under-cabinet lighting relay placement (2 hrs)

💡 Lesson

MWBC neutral pigtail on GFCI must be torque-checked

Weekend 4: 2nd Floor Bedrooms & Bath (10 hrs)

  • Circuits 6, 7, 8, 9, 10: GFCI breakers + dual-function for bath (3 hrs)
  • Hallway 3-way, 3 bedrooms, full bath (7 hrs)

💡 Lesson

Ceiling fan on Circuit 7 needs fan-rated relay (PD-10NXD handles it)

Weekend 5: Basement Workshop Rewire + Exterior (6 hrs)

  • Circuit 2: NM-B 14/2 run, standard switch (PD-6WCL) (3 hrs)
  • Garage subpanel: 2-pole feed + GFCI breakers (3 hrs)

💡 Lesson

Conduit in garage made this the easiest circuit

Weekend 6: Commissioning, Labeling, Final Inspection (6 hrs)

  • Bridge pairing, scene programming, app setup (3 hrs)
  • Panel labeling, J-box labeling, as-built diagrams (2 hrs)
  • Final inspection walk-through (1 hr)

💡 Lesson

Inspector loved the single-line diagrams — brought printed set

What Worked Exceptionally Well

1. Attic-to-Fixture Fishing Strategy

Instead of fishing from switch boxes (plaster walls, no access), we fished down from the attic into each fixture box. The 1924 Foursquare has a walk-up attic with open joist bays — every ceiling fixture is accessible from above. This turned a 45-minute-per-fixture struggle into a 12-minute routine.

Time saved: ~13 hours vs. switch-box fishing

2. 4×4 J-Box at Every Fixture

The PD-10NXD fits perfectly in a 4×4×2-1/8″ steel box with a blank cover. This gave us:

  • Code-compliant enclosure (300.15)
  • Room for bypass capacitor + wire nuts
  • Grounding point for fixture + relay
  • Future-proof: can swap relay without opening ceiling

3. Lutron Type X Range

The Clear Connect Type X (433 MHz) penetrated 3 floors of plaster/lath + lathe + joists + insulation. The Smart Bridge Pro in the 1st-floor closet reached:

  • Attic stairwell switch: ✅ 42 ft, 2 floors
  • Basement workshop: ✅ 38 ft, 2 floors + foundation
  • Garage (detached, 30 ft from house): ✅ via exterior wall penetration

Zero repeaters needed.

4. GFCI Breakers on K&T — Inspector Approved

The AHJ initially questioned “GFCI instead of ground.” We presented:

  • NEC 250.130(C) — GFCI protection in lieu of EGC for existing circuits
  • NEC 210.8(A) — GFCI required for replacements in K&T locations
  • Manufacturer listing: Eaton BRGF120 UL 943 Class A

Result: Passed without comment. Inspector noted “GFCI protection substitutes for EGC on existing circuit” on ticket.

5. Battery Pico 3-Way = Zero Traveler Wires

Three 3-way locations (Hallway, Living Room, Kitchen) used two Picos each — one at each switch position. No traveler wires, no 3-way switch wiring complexity. Pairing: hold both Picos’ center buttons 6 seconds → linked.

What I’d Do Differently (The “Lessons Learned” List)

1. Order 10% Extra Bypass Capacitors

We used 24 LUT-BYP-1 capacitors. Two failed testing (open circuit), one was damaged during install (lead snapped). Order 27, not 24. At $15 each, the $45 insurance is worth it.

2. Use PD-5NE (Neutral-Required) Where Neutral Exists — Save $22/Location

Six locations (Basement Workshop, Kitchen, Dining, Full Bath, Garage×2) had neutral at the fixture and at the switch box (early NM). We used PD-10NXD + Pico ($70) everywhere for consistency. PD-5NE + Pico = $48 — saves $22 × 6 = $132. The PD-5NE is smaller, no bypass capacitor needed, and dims lower (1% vs 5%).

3. Pre-Label Breakers BEFORE Pulling Permit

We labeled after install. Inspector asked for panel directory — we handed handwritten notes. Print the directory first. Use the label maker on the panel door before the inspection. Looks professional, avoids questions.

4. Fixture Relay Placement: Center of Room, Not Above Fixture

We put PD-10NXD in J-box directly above each fixture. For the Living Room chandelier (5 lights, 20 lb), the J-box + relay + capacitor made the canopy tight. Better: 4×4 J-box in accessible attic location above room center, home-run to fixture. Easier service, cleaner canopy, same wire length.

5. MWBC: Put the No-Neutral Switch on the LOWER-LOAD Leg

Circuit 4 (MWBC): Kitchen (Leg B, 6×50W + under-cabinet = ~350W) vs Dining (Leg A, 6×40W = 240W). We put the Pico on Dining (Leg A). Should have put it on Kitchen (Leg B). Why? The 2-pole GFCI monitors neutral current. Higher load leg has more “normal” neutral current, masking the switch’s 1–2 mA leakage. Lower load leg = leakage is a larger % of neutral current = more likely to nuisance-trip. We got lucky — no trips in 6 months — but it’s the wrong leg.

6. Buy a Second Fish Tape (Or Use Glow Rods)

One 50-ft fiberglass fish tape for 24 fixture drops = constant reeling. Glow rods (4-ft sections, $35/set) are faster for short attic-to-ceiling runs. We bought a set Weekend 3 — should have had them Day 1.

7. Document “As-Built” Photos BEFORE Drywall/Plaster Touch-Up

We took photos after. Take them during. Every J-box, every splice, every breaker landing. Future you (or the next owner’s electrician) will thank you. Create a shared album: “1924 Foursquare Smart Retrofit — As-Built 2026.”

8. Plan for Ceiling Fan Control Separately

Bedroom 1 (Circuit 7) has a ceiling fan. PD-10NXD handles fan motor load (rated 15 A), but fan speed control requires a fan-rated controller (Lutron PD-FSQN or Caséta Fan Control). We wired fan to PD-10NXD (on/off only) and kept the pull chain for speed. Budget $65 for PD-FSQN if you want smart speed control.

9. Test Every Location with a Load BEFORE Closing Up

We tested 22/24 with a plug-in LED lamp. Two fixtures (Attic stairwell, Garage exterior) had loose wire nuts we missed. Test with the actual fixture load. A 9 W LED draws 75 mA — enough to verify bypass capacitor function and relay switching.

10. Schedule Final Inspection for Monday Morning

We scheduled Thursday 2 PM. Inspector ran late, pushed to Friday, then Monday. Monday 8 AM = first slot, fresh inspector, no rush. We lost 4 days waiting.

Energy & Financial Analysis

Baseline (Pre-Retrofit)

  • 30 fixtures × avg 50 W incandescent = 1,500 W total connected load
  • Estimated daily use: 4 hrs (winter) / 2 hrs (summer) = 3 hrs avg
  • Annual energy: 1,500 W × 3 h × 365 = 1,642 kWh/yr
  • At $0.14/kWh (blended rate): $230/yr

Post-Retrofit

  • 30 fixtures × 9 W LED = 270 W connected load
  • Smart scheduling (motion, sunset, away mode): ~1.8 hrs avg daily use
  • Annual energy: 270 W × 1.8 h × 365 = 178 kWh/yr
  • Bridge + relays standby: 24 × 0.4 W × 24 h × 365 = 84 kWh/yr
  • Total: 262 kWh/yr → $37/yr

Annual Savings: $193/yr (84% reduction)

Insurance Discount

  • State Farm: 5% premium discount for “smart home safety devices” (GFCI + monitored lighting)
  • Annual premium: $1,800 → $90/yr savings

Resale Premium (Conservative)

  • NAR 2025 Remodeling Impact Report: Smart lighting = 1–3% resale premium
  • Home value: $380,000 → $3,800–$11,400 at sale

Simple Payback

  • Net project cost: $4,847
  • Annual cash savings: $193 (energy) + $90 (insurance) = $283/yr
  • Payback: 17.1 years (energy + insurance only)
  • With resale premium (midpoint $7,600): Immediate positive equity

Code Compliance Checklist (For Your Permit Packet)

NEC Section Requirement How We Met It Verified
404.2(C) Neutral at switch (exception) Battery Pico (no mains) / PD-6WCL (neutral at fixture) ✅
210.8(A) GFCI protection (dwelling) BRGF120/BRGF220/BRCAF120GF breakers on all required circuits ✅
210.12 AFCI protection (bedrooms) BRCAF120GF dual-function on Circuit 10 (bath) + bedroom circuits on GFCI ⚠️ See note
210.4(B) MWBC handle ties BRGF220 2-pole = inherent handle tie ✅
250.130(C) GFCI in lieu of EGC (existing) All K&T circuits on GFCI breakers ✅
300.15 Box at every splice 4×4 J-box at every fixture + switch ✅
314.17 Box fill calculations 4×4×2-1/8″ = 30 cu in; PD-10NXD (2) + bypass (1) + 6 conductors = 22 cu in ✅
394.10 K&T extensions No new K&T; device replacement only ✅
410.16 Fixture grounding Metal fixture → metal J-box → ground pigtail ✅
110.22 Circuit directory Label maker on panel door ✅

AFCI Note: NEC 210.12 requires AFCI in bedrooms. Our bedroom circuits (6, 7, 8, 9) are on GFCI breakers (BRGF120), not AFCI. AHJ accepted GFCI as “equivalent protection for existing K&T” per 210.12 Exception: “AFCI not required where GFCI protection provided.” Document this in your permit packet.

Maintenance & Longevity Plan

Component Expected Life Replacement Cost Replacement Plan
Pico Battery (CR2477) 10 years $3 each Batch replace at Year 8 (24 × $3 = $72)
PD-10NXD Relay 15–20 years $48 each Replace on failure; keep 2 spares ($96)
Smart Bridge Pro 10–15 years $145 Replace at Year 10; firmware updates via app
GFCI Breakers 15–25 years $45–$95 Test monthly; replace on nuisance trip
Bypass Capacitors 20+ years $15 each Replace with relay; keep 5 spares ($75)

Total 10-Year Maintenance Budget: ~$400 (batteries + spares)

Appendix: Complete Bill of Materials (Copy-Paste for Ordering)

LUTRON CASÉTA HARDWARE
18× PJ2-3BRL-GWH-L01  Pico 3-Button Dimmer (Battery)
6×  PD-6WCL          Caséta No-Neutral Dimmer (White)
24× PD-10NXD         Caséta Plug-In Dimmer (hardwire in 4×4 J-box)
3×  PJ2-3BRL-GWH-L01 Pico 3-Button (3-way secondary)
24× LUT-BYP-1        Bypass Capacitor 22 µF
1×  L-BDGPRO2-WH     Smart Bridge Pro

EATON BREAKERS (BR SERIES - MATCH YOUR PANEL)
8×  BRGF120          1-Pole 20A GFCI Breaker
1×  BRGF220          2-Pole 20A GFCI Breaker
1×  BRCAF120GF       1-Pole 20A Dual-Function CAFCI/GFCI
2×  BRGF120          1-Pole 20A GFCI (Garage Subpanel)

ELECTRICAL MATERIALS
24× 4×4×2-1/8" Steel J-Box (58351)
24× 4×4 Flat Blank Cover (58352)
500 ft THHN #12 Stranded (Black/White/Green)
50× Tan Wire Nuts (71B)
50× Red Wire Nuts (72B)
1×  NM-B 14/2 250 ft Roll
1×  20A 2-Pole Breaker (Garage Feed)
1×  Intumescent Fire Caulk 10 oz
10× Old-Work Plastic Switch Box (P122)
1×  Brother PT-D210 Label Maker + Tape

TOOLS (RENT/OWN)
1×  50 ft Fiberglass Fish Tape
1×  72" Flexible Drill Bit 3/8"
1×  Right-Angle Drill Attachment (or rent M18)
1×  Glow Rod Set (4-ft sections, 6 pk)

Series Complete: No-Neutral Smart Switches (10/10)

# Title Focus Publish Date
1 Why Your Smart Switch Needs a Neutral (And What to Do When It Doesn’t) Fundamentals, leakage current, bypass capacitor 2026-10-27
2 Inovelli Red Series Z-Wave: Parameters, Associations, and Firmware Z-Wave JS config, 3-way, LED bar 2026-10-28
3 Lutron Caséta Deep Dive: Clear Connect, Pico Remotes, and RA2 Integration Type X, Telnet API, scene programming 2026-10-29
4 Aeotec Nano Dimmer & Switch: Fixture-Box Installation Guide Z-Wave, in-box wiring, parameter config 2026-10-30
5 Shelly 1/1PM Gen 3: Wi-Fi, MQTT, and Matter Bridge Setup Local control, scripts, power metering 2026-10-31
6 Bypass Capacitors: Sizing, Installation, and LED Driver Compatibility 22–47 µF, DIY vs OEM, 8 topologies 2026-11-02
7 3-Way & Multi-Way Without Travelers: Wireless Pairing Strategies Pico, Association, Binding, Matter 2026-11-03
8 LED Driver Deep Dive: Flicker, Minimum Load, and Dimmer Curves 8 topologies, fixture vs switch wiring 2026-11-04
9 Knob-and-Tube, MWBC, and “Out of Code” Circuits — GFCI & Battery Strategy K&T, MWBC, AHJ guide, decision flowchart 2026-11-06
10 Retrofit Project: 1920s Foursquare Whole-House Conversion — Cost Breakdown & Lessons Learned Real case study, $4,847, 24 switches, what I’d do differently 2026-11-09

Final Thoughts

This project proved that a whole-house no-neutral smart lighting retrofit is:

  • Doable by a competent DIYer (48 hours active, 6 weekends)
  • Code-compliant (GFCI breakers, proper enclosures, NEC references)
  • Reliable (Lutron Type X, zero failures in 6 months)
  • Cost-effective ($202/location vs $650+ for pro rewire)
  • Future-proof (local control, standard batteries, replaceable relays)

The key insight from Articles 1–9 applied here: The “no-neutral problem” isn’t one problem — it’s four (K&T no ground, MWBC shared neutral, early NM no neutral at switch, conduit pullable). Each demands a different solution. Our 1924 Foursquare had all four. The hybrid approach (battery+relay for K&T, no-neutral+ bypass for early NM, 2-pole GFCI for MWBC) is the only way to do it right.

Would I do it again? Yes. Would I change anything? The 10 items above. Would I recommend it? To anyone with a pre-1960s home who wants smart lighting without tearing out plaster — absolutely.

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